Waterwise Turfgrass Management

In the spring, lower mowing height by 1/3 the recommended mowing height. This will remove any excess thatch build up. This is to be done just after the last freeze date. Remember when you rake and remove these clippings to compost them rather than bag them. Continue using this mowing height through spring. This practice will enhance the growth of dense turf. As the day time temperatures begin to increase the mowing height should be increased by 1/3 the recommended height. This will better insulate the turf from the heat of summer as well as the cold of winter.

Aerate lawn once or twice during the spring months. This process will create a more porous soil, therefore, allowing the turf root system to grow deeper and denser. The more porous the soil the greater it's ability to store moisture during the drier months of summer. If your lawn is equipped with an automatic sprinkler system be sure to locate all underground piping as well as above ground sprinkler heads prior to aerating your lawn.

Make the first application of fertilizer after the turf begins to turn green in the spring. Make a second application approximately six weeks later. It is recommended that you use a balanced fertilizer with a slow release form of nitrogen. Do not apply fertilizer during the hot summer months. This will make the plant very susceptible to drought stress and cause the plant to require additional watering. A fall application of fertilizer may be made after daytime temperatures begin to decrease. All fertilizer applications should be done in strict accordance with label instructions.

Limit the use of pre-emergent herbicides to only areas of the utmost necessity. These herbicides can impede a dense root development. A healthy dense turf will effectively control weeds itself by crowding them out. If herbicides are to be used they should be applied in strict accordance with label instructions.

A healthy turf will require 1" of water approximately every three to four weeks during the winter and spring months. As daytime temperatures increase this 1" will be required approximately every one to two weeks. If this requirement is to be met with supplemental irrigation it should be done in no more than one or two watering periods. Excessive light irrigation will develop a very shallow root system which makes the turf very susceptible to drought and freeze damage.

During periods of active growth you should monitor your turf regularly for any signs of disease or insect problems. These can be simple problems to solve if detected early. Should you have questions regarding your turf, remember your local nursery or County Extension Agent are two excellent sources of information.

Steps to Proper Planting

1. Remove all debris from area to be planted. This includes sticks, bricks, old lumber, and anything else that might impede root growth.

2. Spray all existing weeds and grasses with Round-Up. Allow approximately a week to 10 days to allow the weeds to die. Remove all of this material from your sight.

3. The next step is very critical to proper turf establishment. The existing soil must be tilled to a depth of at least 6". This will break up any hardpan that may have developed. Without this step the turf root system will be unable to develop properly. This in turn will cause severe stress during the dry periods as well as very cold periods.

4. If the soil you currently have is a compacted clay you will need to apply approximately 3 to 4 inches of good topsoil, after you have tilled the existing soil. This will create an excellent medium for your sod to attach itself to and enhance early establishment. During periods of excessive rainfall this alluvial topsoil will help move the excessive moisture away from the plants growth points, therefore, reducing the chances of disease development and any other problems related to excessive moisture.

5. Prior to planting, the area must be leveled and any necessary drainage should be established at this time. Once the sod is down it will become very difficult to fill any low lying areas without doing excessive damage to the turf. Remember, this is normally a once in a life-time endeavor and the more time you spend on the little things now the fewer problems you will have in the long run.

6. Do not apply any pre-plant fertilizer or pre-emergent herbicide prior to planting. These two inputs can cause severe damage to the root system you are trying to estabfish. If you are planting a quality turf from a reputable dealer the turf should already contain an adequate amount of each of these to begin establishment.

7. Just prior to planting your sod you will want to cut away approximately 2 inches of dirt from any sidewalks, driveways, or curbs. This allows the turf to lay flush with the concrete and gives your job a much neater look, The excess dirt should be scattered across the yard so that you do not have any bumps under the sod.

8. You are now ready to start planting. Remember when you are making your sod selection, no matter what variety, there are basically two types of turf, quality sod and cheap sod. The two are never synonymous. Often times if you buy the cheapest sod you will also be buying problems that will consume your savings by the time they are corrected.

9. Once you have made your sod selection be sure you are ready to start planting as soon as the turf is delivered. The longer you wait the slower the rate of establishment for the turf. If the turf is not planted promptly you run the risk of your turf dying before it is ever planted.

10. Once the turf has been planted it should be watered immediately. Be sure you have adequate irrigation equipment to water your sod to a point of complete saturation, that is, where water begins to run off within a few hours. This watering to saturation should be done only once. Excessive watering will cause a lazy root system and damage the turf. The turf should then receive a light watering every 1 to 3 days as required. This procedure should continue until the sod firmly attaches itself with the new root system. Once this occurs watering should be curtailed to only during periods of wilting. This will require the root system to go down deeper in search of moisture and begin the establishment phase of a healthy turf. It is not uncommon for turf to go off color during the early stages after planting.

11. Fertilization and mowing should begin by the end of the third week. Fertilization should be done with a balanced fertilizer whose nitrogen source is in a slow release form. Fertilization should be done no more than three times during a growing season and very little nitrogen fertilizer should be used during very hot dry periods.

These steps are a recommended full scale planting program. Any deletion to these may cause slower turf establishment and decrease the quality of your turf. We, at Triangle Turf Co. are committed to producing the finest quality sod available to assist you in creating a landscape you will be proud of. Remember, starting with quality will put you way ahead.

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