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Fall/Winter FAQs
- What is brown patch and what can I do to prevent it?
Brown Patch is a disease, which is most prevalent during the period of time
when our day-time temperature is beginning the transformation from summer
to fall. This disease develops from a soil born spore and it's most defining
characteristic is analmost perfect circle with a gold ring around the edge.
The three contributing factors to brown patch development are cooler
temperatures, an abundance of moisture and also an abundance of nitrogen
fertilizer. We have no control of temperature therefore we must concentrate
on the other two. You should limit your supplemental irrigation to only when
necessary. In the fall most grasses can go up to two or three weeks without
rain before stress occurs. You should not apply any fall fertilizer until the
cooler temperature transition is complete. When you do apply your fertilizer
be sure it has a limited amount of nitrogen in it.
- What can I do if my grass develops Brown Patch?
The first thing we must remember is that we have to limit any supplemental
irrigation to only the very minimum. This should be 1" of moisture every
2 to 3 weeks. If you can push your finger into the soil below the grass it
does not need any irrigation. Do not make a fertilizer application of any type
during periods of Brown Patch development. You may need to make an application
of fungicide to help halt the development of this disease. Consult your local
nurseryman for the recommended product for your area. However, these products
are designed more for prevention than as a cure. Ideally, you should make an
application of fungicide just prior to the passage of the first cool front of
the season. This will searve as a preventative and you will have much better
results controlling this disease.
- When is it too late to plant grass
In most areas of Texas grass is planted year round. This process has been
done this way for many years and only during periods of extreme cold, where
we experience ground freezing would you expect damage to your new lawn. There
are however certain management practices you should follow to insure the
survival of your new lawn. The first and most important is adequate moisture.
Many people feel that because grass is brown and dormant that it doesn't need
moisture. One must remember that the plant is dormant and not dead. The grass
will still require 1" of moisture every 2 to 3 weeks during this period.
This should be achieved by rainfall or supplemental irrigation. Another good
practice for newly established lawns would be to water thoroughly just prior
to periods of extreme cold. This moisture will help insulate the roots and
growth points in the lawn. The cooler periods of the year are really good times
of the year to plant grass because they will require less water for
establishment.
- I want to plant grass under my shade trees. What is the best method of
doing this?
The first rule of thumb that must be applied to this situation is do I have
enough sunlight for grass survival? There has to be at least 3 to 4 hours of
direct sunlight with filtered sun during the day for even the most shade
tolerant warm season grasses to survive. This may be achieved by rasising the
canopy of your trees and thinning the canopy out will allow more filtered sun
during the day. You may plant grass under less favorable conditions and it
will survive one or two seasons, but it will begin to thin out after this. The
most shade tolerant warm season grass is St. Augustine. The most shade tolerant
variety of St. Augustine that we have found is Palmetto St. Augustine.
These are the steps we recommend when establishing grass in shade areas.
First, remove all the debris from the area to be planted. Sticks and leaves left
on site will create air pockets under the sod and hinder root development. Next,
till up the area to be planted in order to break up the hard surface which has
formed. Be careful not to damage any exposed tree roots. Apply a maximum of 2
inches of good topsoil evenly across the area to be planted. Never cover exposed
roots with soil as this may damage the tree. Besure the area is level and free
of any large clumps. You are now ready to plant. Plant only top quality sod from
a reputable dealer for best results. Remember, cheaper is not always better.
After laying your grass immediatly water it thoroughly. This will seal the blocks
of grass to the topsoil. Do not continue to water this area frequently. This will
damage the sod as well as the grass. Test the soil under the grass with your finger.
When this soil is still moist to the touch it does not need water. Only water when
it becomes firm to your finger.
- My grass is brown in the winter. What should I do during this period?
Your grass is dormant, not dead. It still requires a certain amount of imputs to
maintain a healthy plant so it will survive what winter brings and come out vibrant
in the spring. Grass still requires a certain amount of moisture during dormant
months. Most winter damage is done to grass when it is moisture stresses. During the
winter and early spring your grass will require a minimum of 1 inch of moisture
every three weeks. If this amount is not achieved with rainfall use supplemental
irrigation.
A fertilizer application high in phosphates and potash will also help maintain a
healthy root system during the dormant period. This application should be made
prior to dormancy to allow the plant to take up these nutrients. We do not
recommend an application of pre-emergent herbicides during this time due to the
fact that this could do damage to the root system.
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